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LIBRARY 0FX0N6RESS. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



LUNCHEON 



THOMAS J. MURREY 

AUTHOR OF " FIFTY SOUPS," " FIFTY SALADS," " BREAKFAST 

DAINTIES," "puddings AND DAINTY DESSERTS," " THE 

BOOK OF ENTREES," " COOKERY FOR INVALIDS," 

" PRACTICAL CARVING," " VALUABLE 

COOKING RECIPES," ETC. 




^76 9 ' 



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NEW YORK 

Copyright, 1888, by 

FREDERICK A. STOKES & BROTHER 



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DEDICATION. 

To My Friend 
THE HON. AMOS J. CUMMINGS, 

One who, though attending all rich banquets, 

prefers the unassuming well-made dish 

"which smells of home, '^ to the most 

expensive Fantaisies Ctilinaires ever 

invented, this unpretentious 

work is most respectfully 

dedicated by 

THE AUTHOR. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

REMARKS ON LUNCHEON . .11 
RELISHES FOR THE LUNCHEON 
TABLE 13 

German Radishes . . . . 14 

Pickles 14 

Nasturtiums' Pickled . . . 15 

Tomatoes for Winter Use . .15 
Field Mushrooms for Winter Use 15 

Mushroom Table Sauce . , .16 
Chervil Vinegar . . . . 16 

Preserved Watermelon Rind . . 17 
Preserved Strawberries . ,17 
Preserved Peaches . . , .18 
Brandy Peaches . . . ,19 
"Sweet-Pickle" Peaches . . .19 
Crab Apples' Pickled ... 20 

Tomatoes in Sweet Pickle . . 21 
Pears in Sweet Pickle . . . 21 

Cucumbers in Sweet Pickle • . 21 
Fig Tomatoes . . . . 22 

Tomato Ketchup . , , , 23 

5 



6 CONTENTS. 






^ 




PAGE 


FISH AND SHELL FISH 




24 


Raw Oysters . . . . 




24 


Oysters en Brocheti'e . 




25 


Fried Oysters .... 




25 


Curry of Oysters 




25 


Deviled Oysters on Toast 




26 


Pickled Oysters . 




26 


Soft Clams in Chafing Dish 




26 


Stevved Li'it'le-Neck Clams . 




27 


Soft Claims .... 




27 


Snapping Turtle . 




27 


Shrimp Paste . . . 




28 


Finnan Haddie with Poached Eggs 


29 


Spiced Salmon .... 


• 


29 


Broiled Yarmouth Bloaters . 


• 


30 


How to eat Prepared and Preserved 




Fish . ... 




30 


Potted Fish .... 




31 


Potted Eels , ... 




31 


Fried Eels . . . . 




32 


Codfish Balls . 




32 


Shad Roe en Brochette . 




ZZ 


HASH. A Kind Word for it 




Z3 


Corned Beef Hash . 




34 


Minced Lamb on Toast 




35 


Beef Hash with. Poached Egg . 




35 


Minced Ham with Poached Egg 




35 



CONTENTS. 


7 




PAGE 


Frizzled Beef with Egg . 


.* 36 


MACARONI .... 


36 


Macaroni with Roast Meats , 


• 37 


Macaroni with Tomato Sauce 


37 


Macaroni Pie . 


. 38 


Spaghetti . . . , < 


38 


LUNCHEON CURRIES . 


• 39 


Curry of Baked Fish . 


39 


Curry of Cold Roast Beef • 


. 40 


Fresh Beef Curry 


40 


Curry of Brisket of Lamb 


. 41 


Curry of Frogs' Legs . 


42 


Curry of Prawns 


. 42 


EGGS AND OMELETS . 


44 


Chicken- Liver Omelet 


• 44 


Kidney Omelet . . . , 


45 


Omelet with Spanish Pepper . 


. 46 


Pickled-Oyster Omelet 


46 


Crayfish Omelet 


• 47 


Stuffed Eggs . . . . 


47 


Eggs with Brown Butter . 


• 47 


Oyster-Crab Omelet 


48 


PATTIES . . . . . 


. 48 


Dainty Luncheon Patties 


48 


Beef Paities • . • • 


. 49 



8 



CONTENTS. 



VEGETABLES . . . • 

Broiled Sweet Potatoes . 
Sweet-Potato Souffle . 
Fried Sweet Potatoes 
Green Corn, Maryland style 
Green Corn Fritters 
Elder-Flower Fritters 
Oyster- Plant Croquettes . 
Egg Plant, Fried . 

SWEETBREADS .... 

Lamb Sweetbreads, Tomato Sauce 
Sweetbreads, Broiled 
Sweetbreads, Stewed 
Sweetbreads with Scrambled Eggs 

MISCELLANEOUS . 

GoLOASH, Hungarian style 
Spring Chicken Paprika 
Oyster and Chicken Pie . 
Chicken, Economical Use of 
Calf's Liver en Brochette 
A Lenten Luncheon Dish 
Potted Pigeons . 
Blackbirds en Brochette 
Calf's Brains 

Croquettes of Calf's Brains 
Stewed Beef with Dumplings 



PAGE 
50 

50 
50 

51 
51 

52 
52 

53 

53 

53 
53 
54 

54 

55 

55 

55 
55 
56 
56 
57 
57 
58 
58 
58 
59 



CONTENTS. 


9 




PAGE 


Flank Steak ..... 


60 


Roast Tenderloin of Beef 


. 61 


Lamb's Liver .... 


61 


Lamb's Liver, saut6, with Potatoes 


. 62 


Lamb's Liver, au gratin 


62 


Cold Tongue .... 


. ^Z 


Cold Tongue with Nudels . 


63 


NUDELS 


'. 63 


Venison Steak, Sauce Bearnaise . 


64 


Sauce Bearnaise 


' 65 


Venison Steak in Chafing Dish . 


65 


Cheese Toast 


. 66 


Cheese Fondu .... 


66 


Sausages 


, 66 


Ham 


67 


Deviled Ham .... 


. 67 


Ham in Chafing Dish . 


67 


Ham, a la Russe . . . . 


67 




6S 


Frankfort Sausages . . • , 


68 


Pigs' Feet . . , • , 


6S 



REMARKS ON LUNCHEON. 



The midday meal of the household is too 
often an indifferent affair, or consists of ingredients 
which upset the system instead of benefiting it. 

This should not be. Quite as much care 
should be exercised in the table appointments 
at lunch as at any other meal. 

If servants are allowed to shirk their duties 
at one time, is it not human to expect them to 
be careless whenever they feel so disposed ? 

Should a child be expected to have pretty 
table manners at a particular meal, when he is 
allowed to run riot at others ? 
• Heavy soups should not appear at the lunch- 
eon table, for it is too much to ask of a servant 
to make soup twice a day. 

Clam broth, however, is easily made, and 
served in cups is always acceptable. 

Small china crocks of beef extract should 
always be on hand for emergency cases, as a 
cup of bouillon is then quickly prepared. 

A stew of oysters, clams, scallops, or a dainty 

II 



12 REMARKS ON LUNCHEON. 

lobster or prawn stew, is most appropriate at 
luncheon. 

The dish takes the place of shellfish and soup, 
and is, as it were, a combination of the two. 

Vegetable salads occupy a similar position, 
for they take the place of special vegetables and 
the salad. Fish salads also serve this purpose ; 
and a lunch table with a bounteous dish of well- 
made fish salad is considered at all times a 
well-appointed table. 

This rule equally applies to a well-made salad 
of poultry or meats. 

A well-made hot dish of some kind should 
invariably appear at lunch table, and much 
more care should be taken with it than even 
the joints for dinner. 

If they are not well made and served, they 
will not be eaten, and much good food and 
seasoning will thereby be spoiled. 

The utilization of the culinary odds and ends, 
which accumulate in the ice-box and pantry, 
deserves the highest consideration ; for without 
this it would be impossible to please the palates 
of the " men-folks," who, if fed on a continual 
diet of fresh meats which were but once cooked, 
would become unbearable. Their nerves would 
be shattered ; and happiness, under such a con- 
dition of things, would be impossible. 



RELISHES FOR THE LUNCHEON TABLE. 1 3 



RELISHES FOR THE LUNCHEON 
TABLE. 

Relishes are very essential at the lunch table, 
and they should be served in as neat a manner 
as possible. 

They should be constantly varied from day to 
day, whenever possible. 

On fish days the salted anchovies and the Ger- 
man sardellen are acceptable ; they should, how- 
ever, be served in fillets or strips, and firee fi-om 
skin and bone. Lemon should be served with 
them. 

Broiled sardines are sometimes served as a 
relish. 

When cold roast meats are served, a most ac- 
ceptable relish to accompany them is pickled 
walnuts. A jar of horse radish is always appre- 
ciated by the lover of cold meats. 

Radishes are excellent as a relish, but they 
should not be served repeatedly. If they are, 
they are more apt to cloy and dull one's appe- 
tite than to tantalize it. 

A most agreeable relish will be found in the 
raw green sweet peppers; they are not too 



14 GERMAN RADISHES. 

peppery, and their peculiar flavor is a delight 
to the epicure. 

German Radishes. — The little red radish 
is seldom tender after the first of June, and in 
its stead we name the white rusty German 
radishes, which are excellent. Scrape off the 
outer coating, and cut the radish in very thin 
slices ; arrange them on a platter, and strew 
over them a liberal quantity of salt; let them 
stand a few moments, then serve. 

The long black radish is prepared thus : Scrape 
off the skin carefully, and cut the thin slices 
nearly through without spoiling the shape of the 
radish or dividing it, then insert a Httle salt be- 
tween the slices ; let it stand fifteen minutes, 
and eat by pulling off one or two slices at a 
time. 

Pickles. — Wash one hundred small cucum- 
bers in cold water, dry them in a cloth, and put 
them in a butter firkin or an unglazed crock. 
Boil two gallons of water, and add a pound and 
a quarter of coarse kitchen salt ; skim until 
clear, and pour it on the cucumbers ; let them 
remain in the brine three days ; drain them in a 
colander. Wash out the vessel, and put into it 
a sliced raw onion, three green peppers sliced, a 
tablespoonful of mustard seeds, a tablespoonful 
each of whole cloves, peppercorns, and allspice. 



NASTURTIUMS PICKLED. 1 5 

Now add the cucumbers, and pour over them 
two gallons of boiling cider vinegar. The spices 
may be put in a thin cloth bag if desired ; and 
if you wish to have the pickles brittle, add a bit 
of alum the size of two peas. The cucumbers 
may remain in the brine for days, but should be 
soaked in fresh water before pickling. 

Nasturtiums Pickled. — Wash the fleshy 
fruits in cold water, and drain. Strew over each 
quart of them a teaspoonful of salt; let them 
stand over night. Wipe them dry and free from 
salt, and put them in bottles. Boil a quart of 
vinegar with an ounce of whole mixed spice. 
When it is cold, add a little of it to each bottle. 
If the seeds are packed closely, half a pint of 
the vinegar will be sufficient in each bottle. Add 
a few whole green tarragon leaves to each bottle, 
cork and seal. 

Tomatoes for Winter Use. — Select 
sound and thoroughly-ripe tomatoes, scald and 
peel them; parboil them three minutes; salt 
slightly; put them into warm jars, and make 
them air-tight as fast as filled. 

Field Mushrooms for Winter Use. — 
Select the smallest of those gathered, and wipe 
them free from grit. Put into a frying pan a 
quarter of a pound of the very best butter. Add 
to it two whole cloves, a saltspoonful of salt, and 



1 6 MUSHROOM TABLE SAUCE. 

a tablcspoonful of lemon juice. When hot add a 
quart of the small mushrooms, toss them about 
in the butter for a moment only, then put them 
in jars ; fill the top of each jar with an inch or 
two of the butter, and let it cool. Keep the jars 
in a cool place, and when the butter is quite 
firm, add a top layer of salt. Cover to keep 
out dust. 

Mushroom Table Sauce. — Select the 
largest mushrooms for this purpose. Put into 
the wooden chopping bowl a layer of mush- 
rooms with the root ends upright. Strew over 
them a layer of fine salt. Repeat this process 
until five pounds of mushrooms and one pound 
of salt are used. Cover with a cloth, and let 
them stand forty-eight hours ; then rub through 
a colander or sieve, and put it in an unglazed 
crock or porcelain-lined kettle. Mix together 
one-quarter of an ounce of black pepper, a 
quarter of an ounce of ground allspice, half of 
a bay leaf, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, and 
one clove of garlic. Mix, and add to it a quart 
of claret ; boil it a moment, and add it to the 
mushroom sauce. Boil the whole fifteen min- 
utes ; strain, and add to it half a pint of soy (to 
be had at the grocer's) ; mix and bottle. 

Chervil Vinegar. — Chervil is a delicious 
salad herb, invariably found in all salads prepared 



PRESERVED WATERMELON RIND. I 7 

by a French epicure. No man can be a true 
epicure who is unfamiliar with this excellent herb. 
Its leaves resemble parsley, but are more divided, 
and a few of them added to a breakfast salad 
give a delightful flavor. A few drops of vinegar 
flavored with it, or added to fish sauces or salads, 
is excellent, and well repays the little trouble 
taken in its preparation. Half fill a bottle with 
fresh or dry chervil leaves ; fill the bottle with 
good vinegar, and heat it gently by placing it in 
warm water, which bring to boiling point ; re- 
move from the fire ; cork when cool, and in two 
weeks it will be ready for use. 

Preserved Watermelon Rind. — Cut off 
the outer rind and all of the red part from the 
inside ; cut the rind in strips or squares, and 
boil in a liberal quantity of sirup, allowing a 
pound and a quarter of sugar in a quart of water 
to the pound of rind. Make the sirup first, and 
clarify it with white of egg, skim, and add the 
rind ; simmer until quite transparent ; remove 
the rind, boil down the sirup one-third, then 
pour it over the rind. 

Preserved Strawberries. — Gather the 
strawberries in dry weather, when they are not 
over-ripe, and pick without bruising them. Put 
them in clean, dry, wide- mouthed bottles. Take 
equal weight of sugar, and add a pint of water 



1 8 PRESERVED PEACHES. 

to every three-quarters of a pound of powdered 
sugar ; boil until quite clear, and strain. When 
a little cool, pour it in the bottles, cork, and tie 
tliem with string. Wrap straw around them to 
prevent them from being broken. Put them in 
a large stewpan, and add cold water up to their 
necks. Allow the water to boil, then draw to 
one side, and let the bottles remain until the 
water becomes cold. Examine the corks, retie 
or wax them over, and they are ready for use or 
keeping. 

Preserved Peaches. — Fill a four-quart 
steamer with perfectly sound ripe peaches ; place 
the steamer on top of a pot of fast-boiling water 
for three minutes, then remove, and allow the 
fruit to become cold ; peel them carefully, and 
weigh them. Boil together three pounds of 
sugar and one pint of water ; remove all scum 
until quite clear. Soak a tablespoonful of Nel- 
son's gelatine in a gill of cold water ten minutes, 
drain off the cold and add a pint of hot water. 
Add this to the sugar, and boil and skim until 
clear. If not clear enough, whisk into it the 
v/hite and shell of one egg, and strain through a 
flannel bag; but this is hardly necessary for 
ordinary household sirup used in preserving. 
Make an incision in one side of each peach 
down to the stone. Add four pounds of the 



BRANDY PEACHES. 1 9 

peaches to, the sirup, and boil five minutes. 
Scald the jars carefully, so as not to crack them, 
then place them in a dripping-pan, and surround 
them with hot water ; fill the jars with the sirup, 
and put about nine peaches in each quart jar ; 
place the clean rubber band on each jar as fast 
as it is filled, and screw on the cover. Remove, 
and when they are cold test the covers to make 
them as tight as possible. (The gelatine is used 
only when a thick sirup is desirable.) 

Brandy Peaches. — Prepare the peaches 
and the sirup as in the foregoing recipe, using 
the same proportions, and before filling the jars 
add a pint of the best brandy, slightly warmed. 

** Sweet -Pickle" Peaches. — Mix the 
following spices together : a teaspoonful each of 
whole allspice and "chip" cinnamon, a table- 
spoonful of minced green ginger, half a tea- 
spoonful of cloves, and one nutmeg broken 
into small pieces ; put the mixed spice in an 
earthen crock, and pour on it a quart of hot 
vinegar; cover, and let it infuse three days, 
stirring it daily ; allow it to settle, then strain. 
Put into a porcelain-lined kettle or pot five 
pounds of C sugar; add the spiced vinegar, 
and boil ; skim, and when no more scum rises 
it is ready. Do not procure your peaches until 
the pickle is ready. Scald five pounds of firm 



20 CRAB APPLES PICKLED. 

but ripe peaches ; wipe them well ; boil the 
pickle, and pour it over the peaches ; boil five 
minutes, and let stand until cold ; remove the 
fruit, and boil the pickle once more ; add the 
peaches, and put into a large crock with a 
cover. Six days afterwards, boil up once, fill 
the warm jars, and make them air-tight. [It 
sometimes happens that the most carefully-pre- 
pared pickles or preserves will prove a disap- 
pointment; but if you will keep all kinds of 
home-made relishes in a room or cellar free 
from sudden changes of temperature, you will 
experience very little trouble with them. Should 
they appear cloudy, or develop a fungoid growth, 
drain off the sirup, and boil up once, or open the 
jars and place them in warm water which should 
be brought to the boiling point. All jars not 
filled to the top should be refilled. This is best 
done by using the contents of one of the jars, 
which is less troublesome than preparing a fresh 
pickle. Do not put too many peaches in a jar ; 
if quart jars are used, nine medium-sized peaches 
to each jar will be sufiicient.] 

Crab Apples Pickled. — Select bright red 
crab apples with stems on, and boil them whole' 
until tender.^ Care must be exercised not to 
cook them long enough to break their skins. 
Boil the sweet pickle, and pour it over the fruit ; 



TOMATOES IN SWEET PICKLE. 21 

repeat the process three days in succession, boil- 
ing the pickle each time ; fill the jars after the 
last boiling, and seal. 

Toinatoes in Sweet Pickle. — Select 
sound, ripe tomatoes of equal size, and blanch or 
scald them. When cool, skin them. Dry and 
powder the skins, which are excellent for color- 
ing soups, sauces, etc. Put the peeled tomatoes 
into a large steamer, and steam them a quarter 
of an hour; then put them in a sweet pickle, 
and boil ten minutes over a very moderate fire. 
Handle them carefully so as not to break them. 
Store them away in wide crocks. The pickle 
should cover the tomatoes when they are put 
away. 

Pears in Sweet Pickle. — When pears are 
cheap, families are warranted in putting them up 
for winter use. Pare the fruit as neatly as possi- 
ble, leaving the stems on. Boil them in hot 
water or steam them twenty minutes ; then boil 
them in the pickle twice upon successive days, 
only a moment each time. 

Cucumbers in Sweet Pickle. — Select 
large, full-grown cucumbers ; quarter them length- 
wise, remove the seeds, then cut each piece in 
two crosswise. Cover the pieces with wine 
vinegar, and let them stand two days. Then 
drain, and boil them a moment in a sweet pickle ; 



22 FIG TOMATOEg. 

take them out of the pickle, and put them in a 
crock. Let the pickle boil five minutes, and pour 
it over the cucumbers. Let them stand ten days, 
and boil the pickle once more. When cold pour 
it over the cucumbers. Let them stand two 
weeks before using. Watermelon rind may be 
treated in like manner. (Pumpkin, squash, and 
citron boiled ten minutes, then boiled in the 
sweet pickle, with the addition of a root or two 
more of green ginger, will be found excellent 
winter relishes.) 

Fig Tomatoes. — (This excellent recipe 
originally appeared in " Harper's Magazine," 
contributed some years ago by Mrs. EHza Marsh. 
As I have tested it, and found it valuable, it is 
proper to give the lady due credit.) The fig 
tomatoes are both yellow and red, and are abun- 
dant at their season. " Pour boiling water over 
them to more easily remove their skins, after 
which weigh them, and place them in stone 
crocks in layers with an equal amount of sugar. 
Let them stand two days; then pour off the 
sirup, and boil and skim it until no scum arises. 
Pour it over the tomatoes, and let them stand 
two days, then boil the sirup and skim again. 
After the third4ime they are fit to dry, if the 
weather is good ; if not, let them stand in the 
sirup until pleasant weather ; then place the to- 



TOMATO KETCHUP. 23 

matoes on large platters or dishes, and set them 
in the sun to dry, which will take about a week. 
When thoroughly dry, pack them neatly in small 
wooden boxes with fine sugar between the layers, 
and they will keep for years." 

Fig tomatoes put up in sweet pickle are ex- 
cellent. The skins may be left on. 

Tomato Ketchup. — Cut into slices half a 
bushel of ripe tomatoes, put them in a large 
earthen crock, and between each' layer put a 
small quantity of salt (enough to season them 
nicely) . Let them stand eight hours. Put into 
a large saucepan two ounces of mustard seed, 
one ounce of celery seed, a dozen whole cloves, 
the bruised cloves of six roots of garlic, two roots 
of green ginger shredded, an ounce of fresh 
capsicum peppers, a blade of mace, and two 
ounces of shredded horseradish root. Add the 
tomatoes and half a pound of cut sugar. Boil 
slowly three hours ; stir occasionally, care being 
used not to allow it to burn. Add a quart of 
new brandy. Strain while hot ; cover close, and 
let stand two days ; bottle, cork, seal, and keep 
in a cool place. It will be noticed that no vine- 
gar is used. The object is to prevent fermenta- 
tion, which invariably appears when it is used. 
Strain the ketchup as free from seeds as possi- 
ble, as they are objectionable. 



24 RAW OYSTERS. 

This ketchup is expensive ; but it is wonder- 
fully good, and very little of it produces re- 
markable results on the palate of an appreciative 
guest. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH. 

Raw Oysters. — It is in order to advise 
housewives how they should order their oysters 
opened ; for, while there may not appear to be 
any danger in so innocent-looking a thing as an 
oyster, there is nevertheless great danger of its 
killing us if by chance we should swallow a 
ragged piece of oyster shell when eating oysters. 
There is just one way to prevent this danger, 
and that is by refusing all oysters that have been 
opened by the process known as " smashing.'* 
This operation spoils the appearance of the 
oyster and its shell ; and small particles of the 
shell are hammered into the body of the oyster, 
which, when introduced into the stomach, be- 
come a terror as deadly as the mistakes of drug- 
gists. Insist on it that your oysters are opened 
by the stabbing process, and you avert this dan- 
ger. Children should not be allowed to eat 
oysters — raw or cooked — unless they have 
been thoroughly and carefully examined for 



OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE. 25 

minute particles of shells. I am very serious 
about this oyster- opening business ; for, having 
lost a very dear friend through his having care- 
lessly swallowed a piece of oyster shell which 
clung to the oyster, I feel that I cannot be too 
emphatic on this subject. 

Oysters en Brochette. — Select one dozen 
choice oysters, plunge them into hot water a 
second to make them firm (this process is called 
blanching) , then drain, and dip them into melted 
butter ; arrange them on skewers with alternate 
layers of neatly- sliced bacon; broil over a 
moderate fire. When done add maitre-d'hotel 
butter to them, and serve on the skewers. 

Fried Oysters. — Beat up the yolks of four 
eggs with three tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and 
season them with a teaspoonful of salt and a 
s-altspoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thor- 
oughly. Dry twelve fat oysters on a napkin ; 
dip them in the egg batter, then in cracker dust ; 
shake off the loose cracker dust, dip them again 
in the egg batter, and lastly roll them in fine 
bread crumbs. Fry in very hot fat, using fat 
enough to cover them. The oil gives them a 
nice flavor. 

Curry of Oysters. — Put an ounce of 
butter in a pan, add to it a teaspoon of curry 
powder, and water enough to prevent burning. 



26 DEVILED OYSTERS ON TOAST. 

Put fifteen oysters in just water enough to cover 
them, simmer three minutes, and drain ; thicken 
the broth with a teaspoonful of flour, salt to 
taste, stir this into the curry; add the oysters, 
simmer a moment, and serve with boiled rice. ^ 

Deviled Oysters on Toast. — Mix to- 
gether a heaping saltspoonful of mustard flour, 
half a saltspoonful each of white pepper and 
salt, and the yolk of one egg. Dip six oysters 
in the paste, then in fine crumbs, and broil over 
a moderate fire. When done, arrange on toast, 
and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon. 

Pickled Oysters. — A few pickled oysters 
may be served instead of clams during warm 
weather. Scald a quart of oysters a moment, 
drain, and put them in jars. To a pint of oyster 
liquor, add half a pint of hot water and half a 
pint of hot vinegar ; pour over the oysters ; add 
three cloves, four whole peppers, a small bit of 
mace, and a slice of lemon, to each jar. This 
will be sufficient for two ordinary fruit jars. 

Soft Clams in Chafing Dish. — Select a 
dozen large Guilford clams, wash them thor- 
oughly, and plunge them into boiling water for 
a moment. Drain and open them, and use the 
round plump part only. Put in a chafing dish 
a pat of butter, and when quite hot add a dash 
of flour, and cayenne to suit the taste ; add the 



STEWED LITTLE-NECK CLAMS. 27 

clams, and, when they are slightly cooked, add 
a gill of light sherry. Cover the dish, and allow 
it to simmer five minutes. Have ready three 
slices of toast, put four clams upon each slice, 
add a little of the hot sherry, and serve. 

Stewed Little-Neck Clams. — Get two 
dozen freshly opened, very small clams. Boil a 
pint of milk, a dash of white pepper, and a small 
pat of butter. Now add the clams. Let them 
come to a boil, and serve. Longer boiling 
will make the clams almost indigestible. 

Soft Clams. — Select a dozen soft-shell 
clams ; wash them well ; remove the shells ; 
trim off the tough neck \ place each clam on a 
half shell, and add to each half a teaspoonful of 
finely-chopped bacon, a little cayenne, a very 
small bit of onion, and a pat of butter rolled in 
flour ; strew over the top a little grated Parmesan 
cheese, and bake to a delicate brown. Cracker 
crumbs may be used instead of the cheese if 
preferred. 

Snapping Turtle. — Philadelphia is the 
home of this most highly-esteemed dish. Select 
a turtle weighing about ten pounds, allow it to 
swim in a tub of clean water half a day. Half 
fill a wash boiler with water ; when it boils, drop 
the snapper into it. (This is the quickest and 
best mode of killing : cutting his head off is apt 



28 SHRIMP PASTE. 

to be attended with difficulties when attempted 
by amateurs.) Boil twenty-five minutes, then 
plunge in cold water to cool. Remove the nails, 
scales, and outer skin, turn it over, and separate 
and remove the breast or lower shell. Remove 
the entrails carefully, saving the liver only ; cut 
off the gall bag without breaking it ; divide the 
remainder of the flesh in neat pieces, put them 
in a pot, and add a gallon of water. Simmer 
four hours. Add salt to taste, a teaspoonful of 
whole peppercorns, a pinch of nutmeg, the 
grated rind of a lemon, and a heaping table- 
spoonful of mixed dry herbs. 

Five minutes before serving, add a pint of 
sherry, a little cayenne, and three hard-boiled 
eggs chopped fine ; cut a lemon in slices, and 
add them, and serve. Should the turtle contain 
eggs, they may be served separately. 

Shrimp Paste. — You can make an excel- 
lent shrimp paste as follows : Boil the shrimps 
half an hour; when cool, shell them; put the 
shells in a mortar, and pound them to a paste ; 
add two ounces of butter to the pound of shells, 
and season with salt and cayenne ; add a pint of 
hot water, and simmer an hour ; strain. Now put 
the edible or_tail part in the mortar, and pound it 
to a paste, moisten with the liquid from the shells, 
and season liberally with salt and cayenne. Put 



FINNAN HADDIE WITH POACHED EGGS. 29 

it in a double saucepan, surrounded by water, 
and heat it through. Fill the jars three-fourths 
full of the mixture. Pour over it enough melted 
butter to fill the jar, and keep in a cool place. 
When wanted, remove the butter. This paste 
will be found excellent for sandwiches, sauces, 
etc., but not of the same color as the shrimp 
paste of the shops, which is colored with chemi- 
cals. 

Finnan Haddie with Poached Eggs. — 
Finnan baddies are smoked haddock. Most of 
the fish smoked in this vicinity are invariably 
kept too long before being cured, and are, there- 
fore, quite inferior to the Scotch and Canadian 
prepared fish. Cut the fish into pieces about 
three inches square. Remove the skin, and par- 
boil fifteen minutes. Drain quite dry in a towel, 
and brush over the fish a little butter ; broil a 
moment, and add melted butter and a little 
lemon juice ; on top of each piece of fish place 
a poached egg. The fish may be boiled until 
done, and served in this manner, instead of 
broiling afterwards. 

Spiced Salmon. — Cut from a medium- 
sized salmon six slices even, about an inch and 
a half in thickness. Put a slice in an earthen 
crock, one wide enough to admit of the salmon 
being removed from it, when cooked, without 



30 BROILED YARMOUTH BLOATERS. 

breaking the slices. Season it nicely with a part 
of a blade of mace, a bit of bay leaf, one clove 
of garlic, six whole peppercorns, four cloves, a 
little salt, and a thin slice of lemon. Add an- 
other slice of salmon, and season in like manner, 
and repeat the process until all the slices are 
used. Add equal parts of vinegar and water 
to cover the fish; set the crock (covered) in 
a saucepan of water, simmer three hours, and 
allow it to cool before uncovering. The best 
brand of canned salmon is excellent served in 
this manner, but requires not more than fifteen 
minutes boiling to make it perfect. 

Broiled Yarmouth Bloaters. — Bloat- 
herrings, or bloaters, are large herrings smoked 
and cured. They are called Yarmouth from 
Yarmouth, Eng., where they were supposed to 
be first cured. They are a very appetizing 
breakfast dish. Spht them down the back, re- 
move the bone and head, and broil three min- 
utes. Pour over it a little lemon juice mixed 
with hot butter. 

How to eat Prepared and Preserved 
Fish. — Many object to eating fish of any kind, 
owing to the after effects. This unpleasantness 
is caused by flooding the food with liquids while 
eating. Drink your coffee and other \iqi\ids Jirsf, 
and afterward eat the salmon. Above all, 



POTTED FISH. 3 1 

masticate properly, and you will have no further 
trouble. 

Potted Fish. — The lunch table is the place 
to introduce home-made potted and pickled fish 
of all kinds ; and when good fish are plentiful 
and cheap, a jar of them should be found in 
every household. 

Clean the fish thoroughly, remove the head, 
tail, and skin ; split the fish in two lengthwise, 
then cut each half into neat pieces of equal size. 
Put into an old-fashioned stone jar a layer of 
sliced onion, add a layer of the raw fish, strew 
over it a liberal quantity of whole mixed spice 
and salt ; add another layer of fish, and season 
as before, and continue this process until all the 
fish is used. Cover the fish with good vinegar ; 
make the jar air-tight, and put it in a pan of 
water, simmer half a day, and do not remove 
cover until it is cool. 

When serving, arrange neatly on the dish, and 
garnish with hard-boiled eggs quartered length- 
wise, and lemon similarly cut. 

Potted Eels. — This is the only way in 
which eels are appreciated by some. They 
seem to lose their peculiar oily flavor, and are 
very acceptable at lunch. 

Prepare them as in the foregoing recipe, and 
add a few bay leaves to the seasoning ingredients. 



32 FRIED EELSr 

Fried Eels. — Cut the cleaned eels into 
three-inch pieces, and strew over them a quan- 
tity of salt ; let stand an hour, rinse off the salt, 
dip them in beaten egg, then roll in crumbs, and 
fry in boiling fat. 

Codfish Balls. — A well-made codfish ball 
is a delicious dish, but recently it has fallen into 
disrepute for one reason. 

Some feAv years ago an inventive Yankee con- 
ceived the idea of putting up in small boxes 
what he called " boneless codfish ; " and since 
then a perfect codfish ball is a very rare article, 
for the simple reason that very little of the true 
codfish is used. 

Species of codfish, such as hake, haddock, 
pollock, and fifty other varieties, are so put up 
whenever cheap ; but the true codfish is seldom 
if ever used. When wanted, purchase the old- 
fashioned salted, dried fish, and pick it to pieces 
as fine as possible, or rub it to fine shreds in a 
mortar. Soak it six hours ; drain, and simmer 
half to three-quarters of an hour. Wash, peel, 
quarter, and boil twice the quantity of potatoes 
that you have of fish; mix fish and potatoes 
together while warm, and beat them as light as 
possible. To a pound of fish add three ounces 
of butter, two beaten eggs, and cayenne or white 
pepper to taste. When well incorporated shape 



SHAD ROE EN BROCHETTE. 33 

into small, very neat cakes not over half an inch 
thick or two inches and a half in width, and fry 
in boiling fat. 

Shad Roe en Brochette. — Parboil the 
roes slightly; cut them into inch pieces, and 
dredge them with flour. Arrange the pieces 
alternately on skewers with neat thin pieces of 
bacon, and broil a delicate brown on all four 
sides j seive with sauce maitre d'hotel. 



HASH. 



A Kind Word for it. — The paragraph 
writer who has not penned a slur at the homely 
fare known as hash is a rara avis, and the poet 
whose first attempt at doggerel was not a denun- 
ciation of boarding-house hash is yet to be 
found. Slangy men of the world call a hotel 
or restaurant a "hashery," signifying that the 
resort is a place to avoid, it being cheap and not 
nice. Yet, with all the censure heaped upon it 
by an unappreciative public, hash is, from a hy- 
gienic standpoint, the very best mode of, serving 
food. This statement may seem incredible, but 
when we consider it a moment we realize the 
truthfulness of it. Statistics are not wanting to 
prove that minced food digests almost as soon 



34 CORNED-BEEF HASH. 

without being chewed at all as if it had been 
tlioroughly masticated. People who habitually 
*' bolt " their food suffer no inconvenience from 
the practice when their food is cut very fine. 
Most of us eat too rapidly, either from forgetful- 
ness, bad teeth, or in case of hurry ; and the re- 
sult is derangement of the stomach which in 
time ends in an almost incurable case of dys- 
pepsia. Hash, then, is the proper food to order 
in such cases. It need not necessarily be the 
well-known compound so familiar to all ; but 
served in the form of croquettes, forcemeats, 
patties, cromisquis, souffles, etc., it is always ac- 
ceptable, and may be offered to the most fastidi- 
ous ; for while those various names sound more 
poetical, they all mean the same thing, simply — 
hash. 

Corned-Beef Hash. — This homely Amer- 
ican dish, when properly prepared, is very ac- 
ceptable. The brisket part of the beef is the 
best for this purpose. The rump or very lean 
meat does not make good hash. Chop up the 
meat very fine the night before it is wanted ; add 
to it an equal quantity of warm boiled potatoes, 
moisten them a little with clear soup strongly 
impregnated with onion flavor. Mix meat and 
potatoes together, and place in ice box until 
wanted. The next morning it should be warmed 



MINCED LAMB ON TOAST. 35 

in a frying pan. A little onion may be added if 
not objected to. Moisten the hash with hot 
water or dear soup, and, when quite hot, serve. 
Some like the hash browned; this is accom- 
plished by using a small quantity of butter, and 
frying the hash a delicate brown. The pan 
should be raised to an angle of thirty degrees, 
and the hash shaped like an omelet, then turned 
deftly out on a hot dish. 

Minced Lamb on Toast. — The cold lamb 
left from the preceding day is quite accept- 
able when served in this manner. All fat should 
be removed, and the meat chopped quite fine, 
warmed in the pan, moistened with a little stock 
or hot water, and seasoned with salt and pepper. 
Then arrange on slices of buttered toast. 
Poached eggs are appreciated l)y many with this 
dish. Arrange , each egg neatly on top of the 
meat without breaking it. 

Beef Hash with Poached Egg. — Boiled 
fresh beef, left from the ])receding day, and made 
into a hash with one-half meat, one-quarter each 
of potato and apple, and a little minced celery, 
nicely cooked and seasoned, and served on toast 
with a poached egg, is a very good dish. 

Minced Ham with Poached Egg. — 
Mince half a pound of cold boiled ham ; put an 
ounce of butter in a frying pan; when melted 



36 FRIZZLED BEEF WITH EGG. 

add the ham and a very little hot water and a 
pinch of cayenne. When quite hot arrange it 
neatly on slices of toast, put a poached egg on 
top of each, and serve. Minced ham prepared 
for evening parties and not all used may be 
served in this manner. 

Frizzled Beef with Egg. — Cut half a 
pound of smoked or jerked beef into the thin- 
nest of pieces or shavings ; cover with boihng 
water for five minutes, and drain. Melt an 
ounce of sweet butter in the frying pan, and 
add the wafers of beef. When they begin to 
frizzle or turn up, break over them three eggs ; 
stir until the eggs are cooked ; add a little white 
pepper, and serve on slices of buttered toast. 



MACARONI. 

An Italian invention, and the most popular 
form in which wheat flour is sent to table, bread 
excepted. 

It is an excellent dish to serve at luncheon or 
other impromptu meals ; and, while the dish 
called " au gratin " is known to nearly all cooks, 
there are many other ways of preparing this 
very excellent food product. 



MACARONI WITH ROAST MEATS. 37 

Macaroni with Roast Meats. — A most 
excellent dish is made as follows. Break into 
small inch pieces enough macaroni to make a 
pint; cover with boiling water slightly salted, 
and boil fifteen minutes ; drain. Cut into small 
pieces one small onion, put it in a pan with 
a little oil or lard, simmer until brown, and 
add half a pint of hot water or soup, then add 
half a pound of cooked meat of any kind, and 
also add the macaroni, salt and pepper to taste ; 
now add a teaspoonful of flour, cover, and let 
the dish simmer fifteen minutes. 

This is an excellent way of disposing of those 
odds and ends which, while they are not large 
enough to be served a second time, are never- 
theless too good to be thrown away. 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. — Boil 
the macaroni fifteen minutes ; then drain, put it 
on a flat dish, and pour round it a tomato sauce ; 
strew over the dish a quantity of grated cheese. 
The tomato sauce is prepared as follows : Open 
a can of tomatoes that contains but Httle liquid ; 
simmer them gently three-quarters of an hour ; 
season with salt, cayenne, a clove of garlic 
bruised, and very little mace. Press them 
through a fine sieve ; put the pulp in a clean, 
hot stewpan with a Httle butter, stir to prevent 
burning, and when quite thick serve. A most 



38 MACARONI PIE. 

excellent tomato sauce is made of a brilliant 
red tomato ketchup. Take half a pint of it, 
heat it gently, add a gill of rich soup stock and 
a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little cold 
water, simmer until it thickens, and serve. Or- 
dinary ketchups do not have the proper color, 
and are liable to sour when heated. 

Macaroni Pie. — Put into a round baking 
tin two slices of bacon, add to it a layer of mac- 
aroni ; next add a layer of raw meat cut into 
inch pieces ; season with salt and pepper ; add 
another layer of macaroni, and so on until the 
dish is nearly full. Then add sufficient quantity 
of gravy, soup, or hot water, to have the dish 
quite moist when done. Cover the dish with 
an ordinary piecrust, and bake brown. 

A very nice pie is made by adding a layer or 
two of tomatoes, and, if not objected to, a little 
onion may be added for its flavor. 

Fish and shell fish are added to macaroni 
when the pie is made for fast- day meals. 

Spaghetti. — (Spaghetti is a variety of mac- 
aroni, but is much smaller in diameter, and is 
served unbroken.) Plunge the ends in fast- 
boiling water, which should be slightly salted ; 
when soft, coil them in the water, without break- 
ing, and boil for fifteen minutes j drain in a col- 
ander, and pour cold v/ater on it. Put it on a 



CURRY OF BAKED FISH. 39 

hot dish, pour a rich hot tomato sauce over it, 
and keep on the back of the range until it is 
heated through, or strew over it a quantity of 
grated cheese. 



LUNCHEON CURRIES. 

Curries are very acceptable at luncheon, be- 
sides being an excellent mode of disposing of 
small odds and ends of joints which accumulate 
in the ice box. A few recipes are here given, 
but a more extended list may be found in "The 
Book of Entrees " by the same author. 

Curries are made much stronger in pungency 
in India, the home of curries, than as prepared 
by our recipes, owing to climate. People in the 
North add a little flour to the dish for two rea- 
sons : one is to tone down the pungency of 
the curry powder, and the other is to slightly 
thicken the sauce. 

Curry of Baked Fish. — It frequently 
happens that part of a baked fish is left from a 
preceding dinner, and we know of no more ac- 
ceptable mode of serving it again than as a 
curry. 

Divide the fish into flakes. Put into a frying 
pan half a teaspoonful of lard, and when hot 



40 CURRY OF COLD ROAST BEEF. 

add a tablespoonful of minced onion. Fry 
quite brown, add a gill of hot water or broth, 
salt to taste, and a teaspoonful of curry powder. 
If the onions are objected to (but we don't see 
why they should be), strain the sauce, then add 
half a teaspoonful of wet flour to tone down the 
pungency of the curry. Now add fish enough 
to absorb the curry, and place the dish on back 
of range for fifteen minutes. 

Curry of Cold Roast Beef. — A most 
enjoyable dish is made of cold roast beef. Cut 
the beef into thin slices, then divide each slice 
into neat, even pieces. 

Brown a minced onion in the pan with a tea- 
spoonful of curry powder, add a saltspoonful of 
salt and half a pint of hot water ; thicken with 
a teaspoonful of wet flour free from lumps ; now 
add the meat, squeeze over it the juice of an 
orange, and you have a delicious dish. 

When there is too small a quantity of meat, 
an equal quantity of lima beans, string beans, 
cut- up potatoes, or almost any other vegetable, 
may be added. 

When fresh raw meat is used as a curry, pro- 
ceed as follows : — 

Fresh Beef Curry. — The best piece of 
meat for this dish is the lean part of the flank, 
called flank steak, which, beipg cross-grained, 



CURRY OF BRISKET OF LAMB. 4 1 

allows the curry to thoroughly assimilate with 
every particle of the meat. Cut up one pound 
of the meat into neat square pieces. Put into 
a frying pan one ounce of oil or butter, and fry in 
it half of a minced onion, stirred until they 
begin to brown, add the beef, and stir to prevent 
burning for about twenty minutes; now add a 
teaspoon of curry and half a pint of rich gravy 
(if possible) or hot water ; simmer ; squeeze out 
the juice of one orange, sweeten it a little, add 
it to the dish, add a heaping teaspoonful of apple 
sauce, stir, and simmer nearly an hour. Arrange 
a border of rice on a flat side dish, pour the 
contents of the saucepan in the centre, and 
serve. To those who are very fond of curry, a 
teaspoonful of the powder will not be enough ; 
in which case the powder should be placed on 
the table. The flour is here omitted. 

Curry of Brisket of Lamb. — Cut up 
two pounds of lamb into neat pieces, brown 
them nicely in a frying pan with butter seasoned 
with salt and half a teaspoonful of chopped green 
mint ; add a wineglassful of Rhine wine and two 
teaspoonfuls of curry powder, simmer slowly 
three-quarters of an hour ; prepare a border of 
rice, put the lamb in the centre ; squeeze the 
juice of an orange in a cup, add a little sugar to 
it, sprinkle it over the rice, and serve. 



42 CURRY OF frogs' LEGS. 

Curry of Frogs' Legs. — This is an excel- 
lent dish. Wash one pound of frogs' legs in 
cold water ; brown one-fourth of an onion in oil 
or butter ; add a teaspoonful of curry and a pint 
of hot water ; pour this in a saucepan, and add 
the frogs ; simmer an hour and a half, and drain. 
Mix a teaspoonful each of rice flour and curry 
to a paste, with the broth ; add salt to taste, and 
half a pint of milk. Place on the range, and 
when hot add the frogs. Blanch two dozen 
sweet almonds ; rub off the skins, split them, 
and toss them about in hot butter ; season with 
pepper and salt; when done squeeze a little 
lemon juice over them, and send to table on 
separate dish with the curry. 

Curry of Prav/ns. — Prawns are at their 
best served as a curry. Boil two quarts of live" 
prawns thirty minutes, drain when slightly cooled, 
break away the shells, and set them aside. Put 
two ounces of butter in a frying pan ; when very 
hot add a clove of garlic and one sliced apple ; 
brown slightly, remove the garlic, and add a 
dessertspoonful of curry powder mixed with a 
gill of water ; stir, and add half a pint of soup- 
stock and half a teaspoonful of flour ; now add 
the prawns, and the juice of half a lemon in 
which a lump of sugar has been dissolved. 
Pour out on a hot dish, and send to table with 
rice croquettes. 



CURRY OF PRAWNS. 43 

Prawns are plentiful the last of March and 
the iirst of April, and are at their best at that 
time. Of the numerous varieties of prawns, the 
species with which we are most familiar, and 
which are often fomid associated together, are 
the PencBUs setifef-us and Penceus brasiliensis ; 
and, according to Professor Lewis R. Gibbes, 
these species may be distinguished by the fol- 
lowing characters : — 

The common shrimp (P. setiferus) has a 
groove on each side of the large spine that 
springs from the fore and upper part of the 
shell or carapax ; these run backward, and ter- 
minate about the middle of the length of the 
shell. In the same tray in the market will 
frequently be found other individuals, far less 
numerous, in which these grooves run the whole 
length of the shell, terminating just in front of 
the hinder edge or border of the shell, at the 
first joint. This form I have referred to as the 
P. brasiliensis of Latreille. Full-grown shrimps 
{P. setiferus) measure six or more inches in 
length from the tip of the large anterior spine 
to the tip of the tail spine, and three-fourths 
of an inch deep, and broad in the front or 
body part. The large specimens of both species 
are known in the markets as " prawns," or 
"sprawns," and the half-grown individuals are 



44 CHICKEN-LIVER OMELET. 

distinguished as "shrimps." Prawns are in sea- 
son from the latter part of February or the first 
of March, and remain in season two or three 
months. 

Shrimps are in season from June until autumn. 
These and other varieties of prawns and shrimps 
inhabit salt or brackish water, and sometimes 
ascend streams to where the water is nearly or 
quite fresh for the purpose of spawning. 

The foregoing must not be confused with the 
crayfish or crawfish, which are found in most 
of the fresh-water streams of the United States, 
and are in season from early spring until frost 
sets in. 

Most of the prawns sent to market are cooked 
before shipment, and need only warming up. 



EGGS AND OMELETS. 

Chicken-Liver Omelet. — As a rule, the 
chickens used in the household are not enough 
to make entrees of their livers or other tidbits, 
so it is advisable to use them in omelets or 
garnishments to other dishes. Remove the gall 
pouch carefully, without breaking, from four 
livers; wash the livers in cold water, then par- 
boil slightly, and quarter them if too large. Put 



KIDNEY OMELET. 45 

them in a frying pan with enough butter to pre- 
vent burning, and toss them about until easily- 
penetrated with a fork ; add a teaspoonful of 
onion vinegar, and a gill of dark rich gravy or 
sauce Espagfiole ; season with salt and a dash 
of cayenne, a tablespoonful of sherry, and, if 
convenient, add a tablespoonful of chopped 
mushrooms ; place on back of range while the 
omelet is preparing, and before finishing the fold 
add the prepared livers. When nicely made, 
this is a most excellent dish. 

Kidney Omelet. — Wash two mutton kid- 
neys, remove the sinews adhering to them, cut 
them in slices, cover with water shghtly salted, 
and allow them to stand six hours ; drain, and 
parboil a few moments. Put into a frying pan 
a pat of butter ; when hot add the kidneys ; toss 
them about to cook them evenly ; add a gill of 
gravy, a tablespoonful of sherry, salt, pepper, 
and a little lemon or orange juice. Set the pan 
on the back of the range while you prepare the 
omelet as follows : Break three eggs, and ex- 
amine them before beating them together. Add 
a teaspoonful of milk, and beat the eggs up to 
the last moment before pouring them in the 
pan. As soon as the omelet sets, remove the 
pan from the hottest part of the fire ; strike 
the handle of the pan with the left hand to pre- 



46 OMELET WITH SPANISH PEPPER. 

vent the omelet from sticking to the pan, or slip 
a knife under it, which will accomplish the same 
result. When the centre of the omelet is quite 
firm, slant the pan, and prepare for folding the 
omelet, which is easily done if a little care is 
exercised. Before folding, add the kidneys, and 
put the sauce around the omelet. 

Omelet with Spanish Pepper. — The 
sweet Spanish pepper, in any form, is a most 
excellent addition to our list of vegetables, and 
is most acceptable when served in an omelet. 
Fry a small spring onion in a little butter, cut 
up two peppers, add them to the pan, and sim- 
mer slowly twenty minutes ; add a little water 
or gravy to prevent burning. Add a little salt, 
and a pinch of cayenne, for the pepper is not 
hot notwithstanding its hot name. When re- 
duced to a pulp, put it inside of an omelet just 
before folding it. A httle tomato sauce may be 
served with it if desired. 

Pickled -Oyster Omelet. — Rinse six 
spiced or pickled oysters in cold water. Divide 
an ounce of butter into little balls, and roll 
them in flour; put them in a saucepan, heat 
gradually, and whisk to a cream ; add a gill of 
hot water, salt and pepper. Cut the oysters in 
two, and add to the butter. Prepare an omelet 
in the usual manner; before folding, add the 
oysters, turn out on a hot dish, and serve. 



CRAYFISH OMELET. 47 

Crayfish Omelet. — Boil one quart of 
live crayfish in well-salted water for twenty-five 
minutes; drain and cool. Remove the shells, 
spHt the meat from each tail in two pieces length- 
wise, and remove the thread-like intestine found 
therein. Melt two ounces of butter, whip it to 
a cream while it is slowly melting. Dust in a 
saltspoonful of flour, a pinch of cayenne, a dash 
of nutmeg, and a gill of Rhine wine. Set it on 
the back of the range, add the crayfish tails, and 
prepare the omelet ; just before folding, add the 
crayfish, and turn the omelet on a hot dish. 

Stuffed Eggs. — Work four ounces of boiled 
or potted ham to a smooth paste ; add a pinch 
of cayenne, and a teaspoonful of anchovy paste. 
Hard boil six eggs ; when cold remove the shells, 
cut a thin slice off the large end of each ; take 
out the yolks, and put them in a mortar with a 
third of their bulk of table butter, a little salt, 
and nutmeg ; add the ham and very little hot 
soup or water ; heat it gently ; press the paste 
into the empty whites ; arrange neatly on a dish, 
small end upwards ; garnish liberally to hide the 
lower end, and serve. 

Eggs with Brown Butter. — Break four 
eggs separated into a cup ; brown two ounces 
of butter in a frying pan ; add the eggs gently 
to the butter, and with a spoon pour the butter 



48 OYSTER-CRAB OMELET. 

over them; toast four slices of bread, placing 
them in the oven instead of before the fire ; 
sprinkle warm vinegar over the toast ; add the 
eggs to the toast ; on top of each sprinkle a 
little salt and nutmeg, and serve. 

Oyster-Crab Omelet. — This is a most 
tempting dish. Roll an ounce of butter into 
little balls, dredge these with flour, put them in 
a pan, and when they begin to melt whisk them 
— do not let it brown ; add a gill of hot water, 
and simmer until thick ; now add half a pint of 
oyster crabs, salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat 
up four eggs thoroughly, and make them into an 
omelet; just before folding add the crabs, and 
serve. 



PATTIES. 



Dainty LfUncheon Patties. — Mince a 
pound of cold roast chicken or turkey, and 
warm it in a pan. Mince half a pound of fresh 
mushrooms, simmer them in a gill of good strong 
gravy, and mix them with the chicken. Boil 
a pint of milk, and thicken it with a heaping 
tablespoonful of wet flour. Add the milk to the 
meat ; season with salt and pepper, and place 
on back of range to become thoroughly incor- 



BEEF PATTIES. 49 

porated ; then add the juice of a lemon. Fill 
dainty patty shells with the mixture, and serve. 

Prepare the patty shells as follows : One pint 
of flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, and 
half a teaspoonful of salt; sift all together. 
Wash the salt from half a pound of good butter 
in ice-water; work half the butter by degrees 
into the prepared flour, and mix with a little 
more than a gill of ice-water, or enough to make 
a stiff" dough ; roll out the paste, and strew over 
it a part of the remaining butter divided into 
little pieces, and dredged with flour ; roll up the 
dough like a jelly roll, and roll it out again with 
the rolling pin ; repeat this latter process once 
more, and when rolled out thin, add the remain- 
ing butter. The paste being ready, now roll it 
out half an inch in thickness, cut it into rounds 
with a cake cutter two inches in diameter ; press a 
small cutter, an inch in diameter, on each round, 
one-fourth of an inch deep. Place them on a 
buttered tin or paper, and bake a delicious 
brown ; when done remove the centre circle 
carefully, and set it aside to be used as a cover. 
Remove the soft insides without breaking the 
walls of the shell. 

Beef Patties. — Cut into pieces, as for 
Hamburg steak, one pound of steak free from 
fat and sinews. Fry brown a tablespoonful of 



50 BROILED SWEET POTATOES. 

chopped onion ; add a pint of gravy or broth • 
simmer a moment, and remove the onion by 
straining ; return the broth to the pan, and add 
the meat. Allow it to cook a very little mider-, 
instead of over-done. A can of French pease 
and a few mushrooms added, will improve the 
dish wonderfully. Add salt and pepper, and, if 
too moist, add a little flour. Prepare the shells 
as in the foregoing recipe ; fill them, and serve. 



VEGETABLES. 



Broiled Sweet Potatoes. — Raw and 

boiled potatoes are served in this manner. Cut 
the raw potatoes in thin slices ; brush melted 
butter over them and also over the wire broiler, 
to prevent their sticking to it ; broil them a dark 
brown. Boiled sweet potatoes need to be but 
slightly broiled, just enough to warm through 
and at the same time to show the marks of the 
broiler. 

Sweet -Potato Souffle. — Boil four me- 
dium-sized sWeet potatoes. When done, peel 
and mash them. Beat up the yolks and whites 
of two eggs separately; add a gill of cream to 
the yolks ; beat it into the potato (seasoned with 
salt and pepper), and place it in the oven. 



FRIED SWEET POTATOES. 5 1 

Whisk the whites to a foam. Remove the pan 
from the oven, add the foam, replace it in the 
oven, and when dehcately browned it is done. 

Fried Sweet Potatoes are usually pre- 
pared from cold boiled potatoes. They may be 
either tossed about in very little fat, or dropped 
into a large quantity of fat and fried like dough- 
nuts. Mashed and whipped up with milk, but- 
ter, and one or two eggs, then rolled into little 
cones or balls and fried, they are much better. 

Green Corn, Maryland style. — Take 
six ears of boiled green corn when cool enough 
to handle, and cut off the kernels. Cut one- 
quarter of a pound of fat bacon in little strips, 
then in very small dice, and fry them crisp. 
Take them out of the fat, and add the corn to 
the hot fat, toss it about a few minutes, add salt 
and cayenne, and turn out on a hot dish, strew 
the bits of bacon over the top, and serve. 

Green - Corn Fritters. — Cut through the 
centre of each row of kernels, then press out 
the centre pulp with the back of the knife. 
Beat two eggs thoroughly, and add to them a 
heaping saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, 
one pint of corn pulp, and flour enough to make 
a moderately stiff batter. Drop the batter in 
smoking-hot fat by tablespoonfuls, and brown 
them evenly. 



52 ELDER-FLOWER FRITTERS. 

Elder-Flower Fritters. — (The elder bush 
is found growing in waste and neglected places, 
and may be recognized by its large bunches of 
minute flowers arranged in umbellate and race- 
mose cymes, the corolla or crown being wheel- 
shaped and fine-cleft.) Gather the flowers when 
fully developed, and let them stand in cold water, 
slightly salted, for an hour; take them out of 
the water, and pick off the flowers. Sprinkle 
over them a tablespoonful of brandy to each pint 
of flowers. Beat the yolks of three eggs ; add 
a saltspoonful of salt, a heaping teaspoonful of 
sugar, two ounces of wheat flour, and a pint 
of elder flowers, and stir into the mixture a 
tablespoonful of olive oil. Drop spoonfuls of 
the batter in smoking-hot fat, and serve with 
brandy sauce. 

Oyster - Plant Croquettes. — To three 
quarts of cold water add a gill of vinegar, scrape 
and throw into the water the oyster plant as fast 
as cleaned. Drain and plunge them into boiling 
water slightly salted ; boil fifty minutes, drain, 
and mash them thoroughly; season with salt, 
pepper, and butter, and bind together with yolks 
of eggs ; roll them in cork shapes, dip in egg 
batter and then in crumbs, and fry in a liberal 
quantity of hot fat. Throwing the roots in water 
containing vinegar prevents them from turning 
black after they are scraped. 



EGG PLANT FRIED. 53 

Egg Plant Fried. — Cut the vegetable 
into slices one-quarter of an inch thick without 
removing the skin. Sprinkle salt over each slice, 
and return the slices to their original shape; 
press gently to extract the juice, then drain and 
peel; dip them in egg, roll them in bread- 
crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat. 



SWEETBREADS. 

Lamb Sweetbreads, Tomato Sauce. — 

Lamb sweetbreads are not always procurable, 
but a stroll through the markets occasionally 
reveals a small lot of them, which can invaria- 
bly be had at a low price, owing to their ex- 
cellence being recognized by but few buyers. 
Wash them well in salted water, and parboil 
fifteen minutes; when cool, trim neatly, and 
put them in a pan with just butter enough to 
prevent their burning; toss them about until 
a delicate color; season with salt and pepper, 
and serve surrounded with tomato sauce. 

Sweetbreads Broiled. — Parboil them, and 
remove all sinews. Pour over them cold water, 
and drain in a napkin. Cut them in long, not 
too thin, slices; brush over them a little fine 
olive oil, and broil a delicate brown. Serve 



54 SWEETBREADS STEWED. 

with them a butter sauce, or green pease, string 
beans, or a puree of spinach or sorrel. 

Sweetbreads Stewed. — Parboil a pair 
of large sweetbreads, then trim off the ragged 
parts and sinews, and cut them into neat pieces. 
Put them into a saucepan with just water enough 
to cover them ; add a little salt, two whole 
peppers, two whole cloves, and a small piece of 
bay leaf. Simmer three-quarters of an hour. 
Remove the sweetbreads and the seasoning. 
Beat up the yolks of two eggs with a gill of 
cream ; while beating, add the broth in spoon- 
fuls, and also add a teaspoonful of flour which 
has been mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cold 
milk or cream ; beat all together thoroughly, 
and place on back of range until it thickens, 
but do not let it boil. Season the sweetbreads 
with salt and a dash of cayenne, add them to 
the sauce, and serve when quite hot. 

Sweetbreads with Scrambled Eggs. — 
Boil a pair of sweetbreads three-quarters of an 
hour ; drain and cool them. Remove all skin and 
sinews, and cut the sweetbreads into neat square 
pieces. Put them in a frying pan with a little 
olive oil, and when hot break over them three 
eggs ; mix the eggs well with the sweetbreads. 
Have ready a few slices of neatly-trimmed toast ; 
arrange the slices on a hot platter, and add the 
cooked ingredients. 



GOLOASH, HUNGARIAN STYLE. 55 



^; ^ MISCELLANEOUS. 



■J 



Goloash, Hungarian style. — This is a 
very good luncheon dish. Put into a frying pan 
half an ounce of fat, and when very hot add a 
tablespoonful of chopped onion, and a teaspoon- 
ful of flour ; when brown, add half a pound of 
tenderloin steak cut into pieces as large as dice. 
Cut up a medium-sized potato into pieces the 
same size, and add to the dish ; now add half a 
pint of broth or hot water, half a teaspoonful 
of Hungarian pepper, salt to taste, then cover, 
and let the dish simmer half an hour. 

Spring Chicken Paprika. — This is a dish 
which is likely to be appreciated more by people 
who keep late hours than others. Cut a raw 
spring chicken into neat pieces, and saute them 
three minutes in a pan ; add half a teaspoonful 
of paprika, and hot water enough to prevent 
burning ; and the length of time necessary to 
cook the bird depends on the youth of the 
chicken. When done, add salt and a dust of 
nutmeg. 

Oyster and Chicken Pie. — Cut up a 
small chicken at the joints, remove the skin. 



56 CHICKEN, ECONOMICAL USE OF. 

Put in, a frying pan half an ounce of butter pre- 
viously dredged with flour ; when hot add the 
chicken ; toss it about a few moments, and add 
a pint of hot water, season to suit the taste, and 
simmer slowly three-quarters of an hour. Put 
into a pudding dish a tablespoonful of pieces of 
fat bacon ; add a layer of oysters and then the 
pieces of chicken, another layer of oysters and 
the chicken broth ; add the smallest bit of mace, 
and cover the top with paste ; bake forty min- 
utes ; when done brush over the top a very little 
melted butter. 

A pie made of beefsteak and oysters is a very 
appetizing dish, and is prepared much as the 
foregoing. In fact, meat and shellfish pies are 
always acceptable at luncheon. 

Chicken, Economical use of. — When a 
large chicken is purchased for soup, or a sauce, 
cut two neat slices from the breast, and dip 
them in beaten egg; roll in crumbs, and fry in 
hot fat ; serve with sauce tartar. There will be 
quite enough left for other purposes. 

Calf's Liver en Brochette. — Calf's liver 
is not by any means a dish to be despised, but 
the manner in which it is usually served has 
brought it into disrepute. The butcher should 
cut the slices neatly and not wedge shaped ; then 
cut them into two-inch squares. Cut a few 



A LENTEN LUNCHEON DISH. 57 

slices of bacon the same size ; arrange them al- 
ternately on wooden skewers, and broil ; squeeze 
a Httle lemon juice over them, dust over a Httle 
salt and pepper, and serve. 

A Lenten Luncheon Dish. — Trim off 
all crust from three slices of bread, and grate 
the bread into a small round tin. Moisten it 
with milk ; break into the dish three eggs ; add 
salt and pepper to taste, and break the eggs 
sHghtly j strew over the dish a layer of grated 
Parmesan or American cheese, and bake a deli- 
cate brown. 

Potted Pigeons. — A jar of pigeons is a 
very convenient thing to have in the house when 
friends arrive unexpectedly. Clean a dozen 
pigeons thoroughly. Put into a wide, short jar 
a layer of sliced onion ; add the pigeons, and 
strew over them a tablespoonful of mixed whole 
spice ; cover them with vinegar, and let them 
stand over night; drain. Put into a saucepan 
a layer of sliced bacon, and strew over it a thin 
layer of chopped onion ; add the pigeons, and 
a bay leaf, a blade of mace, a dozen cloves, 
and a teaspoonful of whole allspice ; cover, and 
allow them to cook slowly an hour ; then add 
a pint of clear soup ; cover, and allow them to 
cook an hour longer ; remove the birds, strain 
the sauce, and skim off the fat. Put the birds in 



58 BLACKBIRDS EN BROCHETTE. 

a jar, add the sauce, and keep in a cool place 
until wanted. 

When birds of almost all kinds are reason- 
able in price, they are are invariably at their 
best; and famiHes should liberally patronize* 
them, as they are a most accej^table change 
from a monotonous diet of meats fresh from the 
butcher. 

Blackbirds en Brochette. — Clean the 
birds nicely ; arrange them on skewers with alter- 
nate layers of pieces of bacon ; brush a little 
melted butter over the birds, and broil over a 
slow fire six minutes. When done, pour a little 
maitre-d'hotel butter over them, and serve 6n 
skewers. (All birds such as rice, reed, sparrows, 
and all small birds of the snipe family, may be 
served in this manner.) 

Calf's Brains are often neglected by many 
who serve calf's head, one reason being that they 
do not know how to prepare them. For luncheon 
the following mode is the best. 

Croquettes of Calf's Brains. — Let the 
brain stand in cold water an hour, wash it well, 
and remove the membranous covering carefully 
without injuring the appearance of the brain ; * 
put it in a saucepan ; add a quart of water, for 
each whole brain half a teaspoonful of salt and 
two tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar. Sim- 



STEWED BEEF WITH DUMPLINGS. 59 

mer half an hour, and the brain is ready to serve 
with almost any kind of sauce, or to be cut into 
slices, dipped into egg or batter, and fried. To 
make croquettes, mince the brain fine ; add one 
minced boiled sweetbread, a tablespoonful of 
fine cracker dust, the yolk of two eggs, a salt- 
spoonful of white pepper, two of salt, and a few 
spoonfuls of milk, just enough to make a thick 
paste, and keep on ice until wanted. When 
firm, shape it into cones, corks, or balls, dip 
them in beaten egg, then roll in crumbs, and 
drop them in a pan full of hot fat ; drain them a 
moment on a thick towel, arrange them neatly 
on a, hot dish, garnish with tufts of parsley and 
slices of lemon, and serve. 

Stewed Beef with Dumplings. — Select 
the ends of the roast before it is cooked, or the 
ends of the meat purchased for steak. Cut it 
in neat even-sized pieces, and if too fat remove 
a part of it. Put in a frying pan a quantity of 
the surplus fat, and when it liquefies add a table- 
spoonful of minced onion, fry quite brown, then 
add about two pounds of the meat, toss it about 
a few minutes until the sides of each piece are 
slightly fried; then add hot water enough to 
partly cover the meat ; bruise six whole peppers, 
and add them with three whole cloves, a stalk 
or two of celery, and part of a small cherry pep- 



60 FLANK STEAK. 

per ; simmer two and a half hours, take out the 
meat, and strain the sauce. Peel and parboil a 
dozen small potatoes, put six of them in a stev/- 
pan, add the meat, then the six other potatoes, 
pour in the strained sauce, and if on hand add 
three half pints of soup stock, if not add hot 
water ; simmer thirty minutes, and add a liberal 
quantity of dumplings ; cover, and boil slowly fif- 
teen minutes longer. Put the ingredients on a 
platter, have them arranged neatly, and boil the 
sauce rapidly until reduced one-third, taste it for 
seasoning, pour it over the dish of beef, potatoes, 
and dumplings, and serve. Prepare the dump- 
ling as follows : Three half-pints of sifted flour, 
two teaspoonfuls baking powder, two-thirds of 
a teaspoonful salt ; mix with three gills of luke- 
warm milk, and add spoonfuls of dough to the 
stew. 

A very nice stew is made on the above plan 
by substituting veal, mutton, rabbits, or squirrels, 
for beef. 

Flank Steak. — Housekeepers do not thor- 
oughly appreciate this piece of meat; but 
butchers and professional cooks do, for they pre- 
fer it to tenderloin, although it rarely costs more 
than a trifle per pound. It is the boneless part 
of the flank, and is secreted between two layers 
of creamy "fat. There are two ways of cutting 



ROAST TENDERLOIN OF BEEF. 6 1 

It for broiling purposes. One is to slice it diag- 
onally across the grain ; the other, to divide it in 
two, and trim off the uneven ends. It should 
be well basted with melted butter, or, better still, 
olive oil, and broiled over a moderate fire. 

This piece of meat is most excellent for mak- 
ing many kinds of made dishes, and is at its best 
when used as potted or rolled or spiced beef. 

It makes a delicious beefsteak pie, and is one 
of the most economical and useful cuts of the 
animal. 

Roast Tenderloin of Beef. — Select a 
piece cut from the largest end of the tenderloin, 
trim off most of the fat, and cut away the tough 
case-like covering. Lard it nicely, put it in a 
baking tin, surround it with a few young carrots, 
turnips, and potatoes ; season nicely with salt, 
pepper, and the shghtest suspicion of nutmeg. 
Add a little hot water or stock, and bake. When 
done put the pan on top of the range, pour in 
half a pint of hot water, and let it simmer a 
moment, then strain into a frying pan ; add half 
a gill of sherry and a teaspoonful of browned 
flour ; simmer and stir ; when quite thick add a 
few chopped mushrooms, and serve with the 
meat. 

Lamb's Liver. — This is a tidbit rarely 
served at the tables of private families, but we 



62 lamb's liver, saute, with potatoes. 

recommend it when obtainable. It is not only 
tender, but it has a delicate flavor which is 
highly appreciated by epicures. 

Cut into thin slices, and fried or broiled, it is 
quite acceptable. 

When served en brochette it will be found an 
excellent luncheon dish. 

Lamb's Liver, saute, with Potatoes. — 
Cut the liver into thin slices, and cut the slices 
into small square dice. Peel a few raw pota- 
toes, and cut them into dice the size of the 
pieces of liver. Put into a pan a little dripping, 
and add the pieces of liver. Put into another 
pan an equal amount of potatoes and dripping. 
Cook both about five minutes, and add the pota- 
toes to the liver. Now add a gill of broth or 
hot water, and cover the pan ; let simmer twenty- 
five minutes, and, should the liquid evaporate, 
add a little more to it. When the potatoes are 
tender, the dish is cooked. Then turn it into a 
hot dish, add salt and pepper, and strew over 
the top a few blades of chives cut with scissors. 

Lamb's Liver au Gratin. — Prepare and 
cook the dish as in the foregoing recipe. Then 
put it into a small tin, and strew over it a 
layer of grated cheese ; put into an oven, and, 
when brown, serve in the dish in which it was 
cooked. - 



COLD TONGUE. 6^ 

Cold Tongue. — Cold tongue may be pre- 
pared for the luncheon table as in the recipes 
for cold ham, also as a curry, and as a salad it 
is delightful. When cut up small and cooked 
with eggs, and then served on toast, it is very 
nice ; one could not possibly object to it cooked 
as follows : — 

Cold Tongue with Nudels. — Cut into 
long, thin strips, six sUces of cold tongue, sim- 
mer them for five minutes in hot water. Boil 
half a pound of broad nudels (which are ob- 
tained from the grocers) in milk enough to just 
cover ; simmer fifteen minutes, and drain. But- 
ter a mould or small baking tin, and line it with 
the nudels ; add a thin layer of the tongue and 
a layer of sliced mushrooms, another layer of 
nudels, and so on until the ingredients are used. 
Season with white pepper and very little salt; 
add the milk in which the nudels were boiled ; 
strew over the top a thin layer of bread crumbs, 
and over these a liberal layer of grated cheese ; 
bake a delicate brown, and I am certain it will 
please. 

Nudels. — Germans are celebrated for " Nu- 
dels," or home-made macaroni, which take the 
place of the Italian preparations, and have the ad- 
vantage of one's knowing their composition when 
they are made at home. Work into two beaten 



64 VENISON STEAK, SAUCE B^ARNAISE. 

eggs as much flour as they will take, and knead to 
a smooth, stiff dough ; divide this into six equal 
parts, and work them into balls ; put one at a 
time on a very smooth bread board, and roll it 
out with a straight even-surfaced rolling-pin until 
it is transparent in every part; lay each sheet 
on a clean towel as soon as finished, and by the 
time the last ball is rolled out, the first will be 
dry enough to cut as follows : Cut the sheet into 
quarters, place them on top of each other with 
their cut edges quite even, and cut them with a 
sharp, thin, steel knife, into very narrow, cord- 
like stripes ; spread them apart to dry ; con- 
tinue this process until all are cut. The sheets 
may be stamped out with fancy-shaped cutters ; 
when doubled the forms will split apart when 
cooked. White nudels are made with flour and 
white of eggs. If intended for future use, dry 
them well, cover them with paper, and keep in 
a dry place. When wanted for soups, boil them 
twelve to fifteen minutes in the soup ; let them 
float on top a few minutes, and serve. 

Venison Steak, Sauce Bearnaise. — 
Venison can be served in as many ways as beef, 
and is supposed to be more easily digested. 
Select a thick steak from the leg, brush over it 
a httle butter, or, better still, olive oil, and broil 
it. Put it on a hot dish, and squeeze a little 



SAUCE B^ARNAISE. 65 

lemon juice over it ; pour around it a well-made 
sauce B^arnaise, and serve. 

Sauce Bearnaise. — Reduce a gallon of 
strong soup to a quart by long boiling, and keep 
it warm. Beat up the yolks of four eggs, turn 
them into a buttered saucepan, whisk them, and 
gradually add a pint of the reduced soup (which 
is called glaze) ; add, while whisking, a table- 
spoonful of vinegar strongly flavored with garlic 
(or, if liked, a quantity of the juice from bruised 
garlic or shallots), and the juice of a lemon. 
After beating the eggs, stir them in the pan 
continually with a wooden spoon, and do not 
let the sauce boil at any time; when smooth, 
serve. 

A few mushrooms may be added to the sauce 
if desired. The mention of garlic may prevent 
many from trying this sauce, but a trial of it 
will convince one that the sauce is imperfect 
without the flavor of this odoriferous bulb. 

Venison Steak in Chafing Dish. — Se- 
lect a cutlet or rib chop, an inch thick, and 
having a thick border of fat. Put in a chafing 
dish a pat of butter ; hght the spirit lamp, and 
when the butter melts, add the meat. Cook 
one side a few moments, then the other ; turn 
two or three times during the five to seven 
minutes cooking. When half cooked, add half 



66 CHEESE TOAST. 

a gill of sherry, a heaping teaspoonful of currant 
jelly, salt and pepper. Turn the meat in the 
sauce, and cover the dish. Serve with hot 
plates, and pour the sauce over toast. 

Cheese Toast. — Put half an ounce of 
butter in a frying pan ; when hot, add gradually 
four ounces of mild American cheese. Whisk 
it thoroughly until melted. Beat together half 
a pint of cream and two eggs ; whisk into the 
cheese ; add a little salt, pour over toast, and 
serve. 

Cheese Fondu. — Melt an ounce of butter, 
and whisk into it a pint of boiled milk. Dis- 
solve two tablespoonfuls of flour in a gill of cold 
milk, add it to the boiled milk, and let it cool. 
Beat the yolks of four eggs with a heaping tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, 
and five ounces of grated cheese. Whip the 
whites of the eggs, and add them; pour the 
mixture into a deep tin lined with buttered 
paper, and allow for the rising, say, four inches. 
Bake twenty minutes, and serve the moment it 
leaves the oven. 

Sausages. — Sausages left over from break- 
fast may be served at lunch, and when served 
with a water-cress salad they are a very appe- 
tizing dish. Sandwiches made from cold sau- 
sages, when cut lengthwise, are often served at 



HAM. 67 

lunch • the bread should not be much larger or 
longer than the thin slice of sausage. 

Ham. — Cold boiled ham becomes monoto- 
nous when served in one way continually, and 
the housewife should study variations. 

Deviled Ham is appetizing, and, when not 
too highly seasoned, ladies can enjoy it. Put 
into a dish a heaping teaspoonful of French 
mustard; thin it out with a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice ; add a scant saltspoonful of curry 
powder, and a dash of cayenne ; mix, and 
spread it over a slice of cold boiled ham ; broil 
this a moment, and serve with sliced lemon. 

Ham in Chafing Dish. — Put into a chaf- 
ing-dish half a teaspoonful of butter ; light the 
lamp, and when the butter melts add two table- 
spoonfuls of fruit jelly, and a dash of cayenne ; 
simmer, and add a tablespoonful of sherry; 
simmer a slice of ham in this a few moments, 
and serve with toast. 

The ham may be cut fine and cooked as the 
foregoing if desired. 

There are many other appetizing forms in 
which cold ham may be served, and the house- 
keeper should experiment a little on her own 
responsibility. 

Ham a la Russe.— -Select a small ham; 
trim off all rusty-lijoking parts, and scald the 



68 SPARE RIBS WITH APPLE FRITTERS. 

ham. Let it remain in the hot water five min- 
utes ; drain, and dry with a cloth. Prepare a 
dough, the same as for bread ; cover the ham 
with it, and bake in a moderate oven two hours ; 
remove the dough and the skin, dust a Httle 
sugar over the top, heat the coal shovel in the 
range, and hold it close enough to the sugar to 
singe it, then serve with or without sauce. 

Spare Ribs with Apple Fritters. — 
Select freshly-cut short ribs, well covered with 
meat ; cut them so as to have two ribs in each 
piece. Broil in the usual manner; pour over 
them a sauce made of lemon juice, salt, pepper, 
and a little French mustard, and serve with 
apple fritters. 

Frankfort Sausages. — These sausages, 
being smoked, are very appetizing. While they 
are characteristically a German dish, they may 
be made more healthful by much longer cook- 
ing than is usually given them. Our German 
brethren are quite satisfied with " Frankfurter " 
cooked but a few minutes ; but as these sau- 
sages contain pork, they, in my opinion, require 
twenty minutes' boiling. A very nice way of 
cooking them is to heat them in a hot frying pan 
a few minutes, then add boiling water, and boil 
them rapidly until done. If they can be steamed, 
they will be found excellent. 



pigs' feet. 69 

Pigs* Feet. — Over two prepared pig's feet, 
split in two, brush a little butter, and broil them. 
When done, squeeze a little lemon juice over 
them, add salt and a little cayenne. They may 
be served plain, or with any of the piquante 
sauces. 

(The " French " pigs' feet found in market 
are the most acceptable, as they are thoroughly 
cleaned, and some of them already boiled ; but 
I consider them better when placed raw in a 
marinade pickle for a few hours, then dried and 
either broiled or sautes. Pigs' feet deviled are 
a very good dish.) 



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